Post by roymatt on Jun 30, 2009 12:58:16 GMT
Hi. I'm new here but have been building card models for ages.
I use 160 or 170 gsm gloss photo paper (it's a perfect thickness) and have printed using an HP 690C inkjet on 'normal' setting in the past, but now use an HP CP2025 colour laser.
After printing the sheets, spray them with a couple of thin coats of POLYURETHANE gloss varnish. This seals the colours, making the model pretty waterproof, and more importantly, lightfast!
They WON'T fade in the light after a few months! It also gives a genuine high-gloss finish to the model.
I try to avoid having 'tabs' on my parts, as that results in one sheet overlapping its neighbour when assembled. I butt the joins together and always use thick gap-filling cyano adhesive. It's virtually instant, and if you've varnished the sheets, the glue won't stain or discolour the components. I always colour ALL cut edges using felt pens before sticking the parts together to hide the white edges of the card.
Also, wherever possible, I add extra internal thicker card to panels where they won't be seen to give extra strength. It also helps make curves much smoother and stronger. I use picture mount board for this.
It's REALLY thick and very, very strong.
I'm sure lots of you have your own methods, and I'm not saying mine are the best, but they work for me.
I'm building the amazing Aston Martin model at the mo and I'll post some pictures when I've finished.
So far, it's going together really well. Compliments to the designer.
Roy.
I use 160 or 170 gsm gloss photo paper (it's a perfect thickness) and have printed using an HP 690C inkjet on 'normal' setting in the past, but now use an HP CP2025 colour laser.
After printing the sheets, spray them with a couple of thin coats of POLYURETHANE gloss varnish. This seals the colours, making the model pretty waterproof, and more importantly, lightfast!
They WON'T fade in the light after a few months! It also gives a genuine high-gloss finish to the model.
I try to avoid having 'tabs' on my parts, as that results in one sheet overlapping its neighbour when assembled. I butt the joins together and always use thick gap-filling cyano adhesive. It's virtually instant, and if you've varnished the sheets, the glue won't stain or discolour the components. I always colour ALL cut edges using felt pens before sticking the parts together to hide the white edges of the card.
Also, wherever possible, I add extra internal thicker card to panels where they won't be seen to give extra strength. It also helps make curves much smoother and stronger. I use picture mount board for this.
It's REALLY thick and very, very strong.
I'm sure lots of you have your own methods, and I'm not saying mine are the best, but they work for me.
I'm building the amazing Aston Martin model at the mo and I'll post some pictures when I've finished.
So far, it's going together really well. Compliments to the designer.
Roy.
